Benmore and Les Cage aux Folles

Monday 21st November 2011

What a treat I had on Saturday when Kay and I visited Benmore Botanical Gardens one of the country annexes of the Royal Botanic Gardens Edinburgh, located just north of Dunoon in Argyll. http://www.rbge.org.uk/the-gardens/benmore It had been many years since I had last been there and as I had been invited to speak to their 'Friends' group Kay and I decided to make a day of it and arrived early to give us time to have a look round before my talk.

I have to say I think it one of the nicest ways to enter into the Highlands, by catching the Western Ferries boat from Gourock http://www.western-ferries.co.uk/ . I was very impressed with the efficiency of the ferry company as there was no waiting because there were three roll-on-roll-off ferries constantly going backwards and forwards over the Clyde estuary. In fairness it is a pretty grim drive from Glasgow down past the airport and then along through Greenock and Port Glasgow, through a depressed region of Scotland, however as soon as you board the ferry and leave the

Cloch Lighthouse http://www.secretscotland.org.uk/index.php/Secrets/ClochLighthouse and the industrial south side of the river behind you the hills of the Cowal peninsula greet you with open arms and just 20 short minutes later you get off the ferry in a completely different 'Highland' world. http://www.visitcowal.co.uk/

The garden itself is only a few miles north at the top of the Holy Loch.

The entrance to the garden is one of the most spectacular of any garden I have ever been to (anywhere) and I've seen a few over the years. Benmore has the most wonderful avenue of giant Wellingtonia trees that I understand will be celebrating their 150th birthday in 2013. Peter Baxter the curator of the gardens explained that they hoped to use this anniversary to publicize the gardens in the next year or so. I asked him about the health of the trees and he said that they were very happy and still growing strong. His only worry is that people can't stop touching them, and it was plain to see that each tree had been worn away at about head height with visitors wanting to touch the soft bark. Peter said he had even seen people punching the trunks as they are so soft. (can you believe someone would want to do such a thing?) Although I have to confess that I couldn't resist a gentle stroke as they are very tactile things - but if you have to touch them be gentle! Have a look at this cool website if redwoods are your passion http://www.redwoodworld.co.uk/picturepages/benmore.htm

The garden was 'officially' closed at the end of October, but still open for a donation to visitors who want to do their own thing - the cafe was still open and doing a raring trade. We walked on at a pace passing stunning giant specimen trees and wonderful shrubs still with good autumn colour. We wanted to see the recently refurbished fernery and we were not disappointed. What an amazing building and well worth the visit to Benmore alone. http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/benmore-fernery/benmore-fernery.htm

We climbed up the steep stairs and ducked in through a dark doorway to come out into a lush jungle of exotic ferns. Brilliant - but never let your wife take a photo of you in a fernery - because Kay's effort looks as if I have a feather boa strapped to my head and just walked out of Les Cage Aux Folles - when we saw the photo we got a real fit of the giggles - she is terrible really!!

We were met by two charming ladies who run the Friends group (Elizabeth and Janice) and were treated to a lovely bowl of soup, before we went up to the smart new meeting venue at the Benmore Court Yard cum Gallery.

The meeting was well attended and I think they all enjoyed hearing the Brightwater Holidays story - Thank you Peter for your technical help. Afternoon tea and homemade scones finished off a lovely afternoon. Sadly we had to head south on the ferry back into the industrial south but I know it will not be so long before we return to Benmore Botanical Gardens - one of the best!